- Connects to most circular saws-right or left blade
- Reversible Guide Arm for Right or Left Hand Use
- Rips cuts from 1/8-Inch to 24-Inch wide
- No measuring, marking, and no chalk lines
- 100-Percent Guide support through entire cut
Ripping down large panels into smaller more manageable workpieces is one of the trickiest, most intimidating, and expensive steps of any wood project. Even if you're ripping with the nicest table saw, you're still forced to lift large heavy panels, balance them carefully to avoid binding and bowing, while at the same time trying to support the finished workpieces and waste material as they exit the saw. There is a faster way. There is an easier way! There is a better way. Introducing the all-new Kreg Rip-Cut. The Rip-Cut is an incredibly handy tool which speeds and simplifies the process of ripping down large plywood and MDF panels. No measuring, no marking, no chalk lines-the Rip-Cut quickly and easily attaches to almost any circular saw, letting you cut pieces from 1/8-Inch up to 24-Inch wide with tremendous accuracy. The Rip-Cut is a no-nonsense, straight forward, accessory for your circular saw. It features a durable design including a solid aluminum guide rail, an easy-to-read adjustable scale, and a reversib
By George Slack
I own a lot of tools. 45K worth of Snap-On and Mac tools, every 20v Max tool that DeWalt makes, and tons of other top brand tools. I loath cheap tools. The Kreg Rip-Cut seemed too good to be true. Could something so simple in design work as well as advertised? I ordered one and received it today. I promptly attached it to my DeWalt 20v circular saw and made a few cuts. WOW! Rock solid and precise straight cuts. I used it to cut 1/8" off of an 8ft piece of plywood. After 4 cuts with the Kreg guide, I trashed my old Empire 98" cutting guide. Those type of guides flex in the middle which can cause the saw to bind (dangerous) and leave you with a pile of scrap wood. Forget all the extending snap together rip guides and home made saw guides. This is a must have for anyone that needs to make straight cuts with a circular saw. One bit of advice... have patience with the initial setup on your saw. Read the directions and then head to Youtube and watch a few videos of how to properly install and setup on your saw.
UPDATE: I added a few photos of this item attached to my DeWalt 20v Max circular saw. I've read quite a few reviews that saw this item didn't fit their saw or the item doesn't work properly so I hope these photos help.
1) If you look at pic #2 you'll see that I used a screw hole meant to secure a regular circular saw rip fence and then drilled a "dimple" hole in the saw base to create a spot for the 2nd screw to settle into. This allowed the Kreg Rip-Cut to attach very securely to the saw and prevents the saw and Rip-Cut from getting sloppy. If your saw doesn't have holes like mine, simply attach the sled part of the Rip-Cut to your saw, clamp it in place and drill a couple small holes in the base of your saw. With those holes, if you need to remove the sled part of the guide from your saw the holes will allow you to very easily reinstall it perfectly with no alignment issues. FYI - I never remove the sled from my saw.
2) Setting the "0 point" is critical. YouTube has several awesome videos that show how to set the Rip-Cut to accurately align with the saw blade. This allows you to make very accurate cuts without wasting time measuring multiple times.
Hope this helps.
UPDATE: I added a few photos of this item attached to my DeWalt 20v Max circular saw. I've read quite a few reviews that saw this item didn't fit their saw or the item doesn't work properly so I hope these photos help.
1) If you look at pic #2 you'll see that I used a screw hole meant to secure a regular circular saw rip fence and then drilled a "dimple" hole in the saw base to create a spot for the 2nd screw to settle into. This allowed the Kreg Rip-Cut to attach very securely to the saw and prevents the saw and Rip-Cut from getting sloppy. If your saw doesn't have holes like mine, simply attach the sled part of the Rip-Cut to your saw, clamp it in place and drill a couple small holes in the base of your saw. With those holes, if you need to remove the sled part of the guide from your saw the holes will allow you to very easily reinstall it perfectly with no alignment issues. FYI - I never remove the sled from my saw.
2) Setting the "0 point" is critical. YouTube has several awesome videos that show how to set the Rip-Cut to accurately align with the saw blade. This allows you to make very accurate cuts without wasting time measuring multiple times.
Hope this helps.
By J. Prewitt
As I was assembling this tool I noticed the measuring guide was off about 1/16" to the left. The "0" mark was left of the board edge, so knowing there was no fix that I could make, I called Kreg support and explained the problem, after which they sent out a new one and included an RMA shipping tag for the defective one. I did not call Amazon for a return since this was a quality control issue for Kreg. The replacement clamp was spot on, so we got to work.
I still grade this tool a "5" even with the problem. Outstanding customer service always trumps a rare problem. Buy this little rip tool, it saves time, no tedious measuring or using long clamps that can and do stress out of alignment. My darling helped me rip 3 full sheets of Cabinet Birch plywood into 16" and 24" sections taking only 20 minutes to do. Outstanding! And the edges were square, with no burn marks or slippage of the saw blade. Kudos to Kreg, another winner.
I still grade this tool a "5" even with the problem. Outstanding customer service always trumps a rare problem. Buy this little rip tool, it saves time, no tedious measuring or using long clamps that can and do stress out of alignment. My darling helped me rip 3 full sheets of Cabinet Birch plywood into 16" and 24" sections taking only 20 minutes to do. Outstanding! And the edges were square, with no burn marks or slippage of the saw blade. Kudos to Kreg, another winner.
By Wilber
I should start out by saying that I'm not really experienced in using a circular saw. I've used one off and on through my life but never a lot.
I didn't find this particularly hard to setup or install. I was a little perturbed that it was plastic and when mounting the saw to the Rip-Cut it flexed a little, but when using it that didn't seem to matter.
I bought this because I thought it would be a good alternative to a table saw, which I don't have the room for right now. I was a little worried when I heard people suggesting that you use wax where it slides across the wood. I thought it was going to be rough moving it across. Nothing could be further from how it actually works. It slid smoothly and evenly across the entire 48 inches of 3/4 plywood, not once, but 9 times with flawless results. I needed pieces cut that were identical in length and width. I thought for sure I was going to have at least a little deviation in my cuts, but I found none! I'm not saying it wouldn't have been easier using a table saw. It certainly would have. I was working on my tailgate and using clamps and having to catch the board with one hand and still pushing the saw with my other. But this worked awesome as an alternative.
I was using a Milwaukee 2730 M18 FUEL 6-1/2" Circular Saw with a Freud D0624X Diablo 6-1/2-Inch 24-Tooth Blade.
Highly recommended!
I didn't find this particularly hard to setup or install. I was a little perturbed that it was plastic and when mounting the saw to the Rip-Cut it flexed a little, but when using it that didn't seem to matter.
I bought this because I thought it would be a good alternative to a table saw, which I don't have the room for right now. I was a little worried when I heard people suggesting that you use wax where it slides across the wood. I thought it was going to be rough moving it across. Nothing could be further from how it actually works. It slid smoothly and evenly across the entire 48 inches of 3/4 plywood, not once, but 9 times with flawless results. I needed pieces cut that were identical in length and width. I thought for sure I was going to have at least a little deviation in my cuts, but I found none! I'm not saying it wouldn't have been easier using a table saw. It certainly would have. I was working on my tailgate and using clamps and having to catch the board with one hand and still pushing the saw with my other. But this worked awesome as an alternative.
I was using a Milwaukee 2730 M18 FUEL 6-1/2" Circular Saw with a Freud D0624X Diablo 6-1/2-Inch 24-Tooth Blade.
Highly recommended!
By LF
I had an 8 1/2' aluminum guide with a track on the bottom to allow 2 clamps to hold the bar to the sheet good being cut. Lent it to a friend and got back the clamps, no guide. I really liked this system but alas, it was gone.
I saw this tool at Lowes and picked it up as I had several full sheets of ply that I needed to break down. It looked cheap but I have several Kreg tools and they have all been great so I forked over the cash and took one home. I have a Skil Model 77 saw and it was a tight fit but it did fit to the guide. Calibration for the scale to determine cut position took about 30 seconds and it is dead n**s accurate. This is my favorite part of the system. If you need to make a 19 5/16" cut you move the guide to that position, lower the clamp handle and cut away. No more 19 5/16" + 2 3/8" calculations to allow for the distance from the edge of the guide + distance from the edge of the saw base plate to the edge of the blade (old system that got lost). Then marking your sheet good with pencil and then aligning the guide bar and clamping it down. With the Kreg tool you literally just slide the guide to 19 5/16" and you are done. I am so thankful that my original tool was lost.
This tool just plain works well. I highly recommend it.
LF
I saw this tool at Lowes and picked it up as I had several full sheets of ply that I needed to break down. It looked cheap but I have several Kreg tools and they have all been great so I forked over the cash and took one home. I have a Skil Model 77 saw and it was a tight fit but it did fit to the guide. Calibration for the scale to determine cut position took about 30 seconds and it is dead n**s accurate. This is my favorite part of the system. If you need to make a 19 5/16" cut you move the guide to that position, lower the clamp handle and cut away. No more 19 5/16" + 2 3/8" calculations to allow for the distance from the edge of the guide + distance from the edge of the saw base plate to the edge of the blade (old system that got lost). Then marking your sheet good with pencil and then aligning the guide bar and clamping it down. With the Kreg tool you literally just slide the guide to 19 5/16" and you are done. I am so thankful that my original tool was lost.
This tool just plain works well. I highly recommend it.
LF
By clippergear
I ordered the Kreg Rip-Cut because I was having a difficult time making straight cuts on large pieces of wood (over 4' X 4') on my table saw. Every time I used the table saw the cuts were not even or straight. I went online to look for help on cutting straight lines on a table saw and the Kreg Rip-Cut popped up in one of the windows. After reading about it and watching the video I ordered it immediately. When I received it and got it out of the box I was worried that my older circular saw (over 15 years) would not fit on the jig. However, once I got everything out of the bags and read the directions I had no problem fitting it perfectly on my saw.
Once I used it I was in love. You simply set the measuring gauge, make the cut and that cut is the correct width and is straight. I will never worry again when buying large sheet goods from the store. Knowing I have the Kreg Rip-Cut, I can cut anything, any size to a nice straight cut. Once I have the wood cut down to a pieces I can handle, using the table saw for the finishing cuts won't be a problem anymore. I will be recommending the Kreg Rip-Cut to anyone who will listen and will probably be talking about it to those who don't even do woodworking. I finally get to talk about this great product that actually works the way it's supposed to which makes my woodworking jobs so much easier, more enjoyable and less stressful.
Once I used it I was in love. You simply set the measuring gauge, make the cut and that cut is the correct width and is straight. I will never worry again when buying large sheet goods from the store. Knowing I have the Kreg Rip-Cut, I can cut anything, any size to a nice straight cut. Once I have the wood cut down to a pieces I can handle, using the table saw for the finishing cuts won't be a problem anymore. I will be recommending the Kreg Rip-Cut to anyone who will listen and will probably be talking about it to those who don't even do woodworking. I finally get to talk about this great product that actually works the way it's supposed to which makes my woodworking jobs so much easier, more enjoyable and less stressful.
By TheTerrorBeyond
This is a great replacement for the standard guide that you get with a circular saw. The ability to rip out to 24" easily is a great thing, as it is very difficult to handle a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" plywood by yourself when trying to run it on a tablesaw. This will solve a lot of problems for you and you will be very glad that you have it once you understand a couple of simple tricks.
1. Put your workpiece on top of a sacrificial piece that is large enough to hold your entire workpiece and stop your cut-off piece from falling. This will keep your saw from binding and it will keep your cut straight. Just adjust the cutting depth of your circular saw to the minimum depth to get through your workpiece fully and use your sacrificial board to hold your workpiece for you.
2. Mind your cord. Make sure that you keep your cord out of the way so that you don't accidentally step on it, or get it bound in some way. This simple step will save you a lot of heartache in any job, so pay particular attention.
3. Keep your workpiece clean and free of debris. The guide will slide much better if you keep your workpiece free of excess sawdust and also keep the slide clean and smooth.
One other thing to note: the picture of the guide shows it configured for using your saw with your left-hand. You can assemble the guide so that the saw is used with the right hand, all you need to do is put the pieces on the other side. As shown in the picture, the guide rides down the right side of your workpiece and you must use your saw with your left hand, just change the position of the plastic pieces and the guide will ride down the left side of your workpiece for a right-handed worker.
If I could change one thing about this jig, I would make the gauge for the ruler transparent with a line down the middle. As it stands, the gauge comes to a point and you point the tip to your length. This should be a simple transparent prism with a line like most fences. I am considering making one of my own, as it would make it much easier to be precise.
Bottom line: Highly recommended
5/5 stars
1. Put your workpiece on top of a sacrificial piece that is large enough to hold your entire workpiece and stop your cut-off piece from falling. This will keep your saw from binding and it will keep your cut straight. Just adjust the cutting depth of your circular saw to the minimum depth to get through your workpiece fully and use your sacrificial board to hold your workpiece for you.
2. Mind your cord. Make sure that you keep your cord out of the way so that you don't accidentally step on it, or get it bound in some way. This simple step will save you a lot of heartache in any job, so pay particular attention.
3. Keep your workpiece clean and free of debris. The guide will slide much better if you keep your workpiece free of excess sawdust and also keep the slide clean and smooth.
One other thing to note: the picture of the guide shows it configured for using your saw with your left-hand. You can assemble the guide so that the saw is used with the right hand, all you need to do is put the pieces on the other side. As shown in the picture, the guide rides down the right side of your workpiece and you must use your saw with your left hand, just change the position of the plastic pieces and the guide will ride down the left side of your workpiece for a right-handed worker.
If I could change one thing about this jig, I would make the gauge for the ruler transparent with a line down the middle. As it stands, the gauge comes to a point and you point the tip to your length. This should be a simple transparent prism with a line like most fences. I am considering making one of my own, as it would make it much easier to be precise.
Bottom line: Highly recommended
5/5 stars
By Mom of Boys
I can't say enough good things about this jig. I had to sell my table saw when we moved and this has been acting as my replacement until I can find an affordable-large saw that I like. I've ripcut pieces from 2x8 boards that were 1" wide and larger pieces from plywood with precision and ease. When I'm done I simply take it off my saw and hang above my tool bench. It was a little tricky at first to find the best place to screws the metal arms from the jig onto my saw so it would hold it securely (mostly because there's a knob on my saw that is somewhat in the way). It's so fast and easy to use!
By M. Rose
This rip cut attachment for my 7 1/4" Skill saw has been priceless in completing my current closet organizer project. To boil it down, this project has involved materials including 7 - 3/4" sheets of veneer plywood and another 5 sheets of 1/4" melamine. Before finding this tool I had always ripped ply with a 10" table saw., , teetering the material precariously on rollers and saw horses. Moving a large sheet of material on a stationary saw didn't t produce consistent results - at the very least it was tricky. With this attachment, the material stays stationary on #4 - 8' 2x4's strung across two saw horses. The saw moves the material doesn't meaning better (perfect) results. This rip cut accessory's only limit is it handles cuts up to 24" wide. Anything wider I'm using a 50+ inch rip guide that is also wonderful but limited in the number of cuts I've used it for. Once again on this Kreg rip cut accessory, Kreg has nailed it. Oh, BTW, I've attached this accessory to both a 7 1/4" Skill saw for 3/4 ply, and a 5" 18 volt Ryobi saw ( 1/4" melamine). Worked perfect with both. Very versatile.
By Ame M.
It took me 5 months between buying this tool and setting it up and man do I regret it! Assembling the tool was pretty simple, and zeroing it it was also simple. I have NO idea why I waited so long! I used it first on a project with a large margin of error so that I could get the feel of it, but only the first cut that I made was off by 1/4 inch (I had made an error in positioning the pointer) after I repositioned the pointer all of my cuts were spectacularly identical. Before this, I had done the old school measure the cut, mark the stand off of my saw, clamp a straight edge and then cut - between the two measurements at each end, my cuts were never perfectly straight (the width of a pencil line can sometimes throw the whole darn thing off). With this tool, my cuts are near perfect. In fact, I like cutting with this so much better that when I needed to trim a 34 inch panel (too wide for this tool) I instead did the math and subtracted the 14 inches instead. I had to make a diagonal cut at the end of this project and it seemed like TORTURE getting out the straight edge and clamps!
The second project I did was with my father, making maple ply shelves. My dad was skeptical at first, but after we made 3 identical sides for the shelf with no measurement or marking, he was SOLD. He was leaving for Mexico to work on his boat that week, and asked if he could take mine (since he didn't have time to order his own) so now I am in the market for another one, because I cannot imagine going back to cutting sheet goods the old way!
Some hints:
*I am using a Ridgid 18v saw, I think that the saw blade is pretty close to the front of saw which means that I don't "run out" of guide at the end of a cut. If your saw has a large plate in front of the blade, the guide might not be long enough to support the cut all the way through.
*I have always cut sheet goods on 2x4s on the ground (which works well with this tool - no clamps to get in the way), however on one cut the 2x4 was sticking out a little bit from the sheet goods and the guide caught the 2x4 instead of the edge of the plywood... doh! (Luckily this was a project I had chosen for the wide margin of error and the piece was still useable - also I rotated the sheet 180 degrees for the rest of the cuts - using the other factory edge- so that the one error wouldn't be compounded).
*Once I got the guide calibrated properly I drew a line on the guide at the edge of the saw to make it easier to put the guide on. It is accurate enough for my purposes, but if you need greater precision you might need to do a test cut each time you put this on.
The second project I did was with my father, making maple ply shelves. My dad was skeptical at first, but after we made 3 identical sides for the shelf with no measurement or marking, he was SOLD. He was leaving for Mexico to work on his boat that week, and asked if he could take mine (since he didn't have time to order his own) so now I am in the market for another one, because I cannot imagine going back to cutting sheet goods the old way!
Some hints:
*I am using a Ridgid 18v saw, I think that the saw blade is pretty close to the front of saw which means that I don't "run out" of guide at the end of a cut. If your saw has a large plate in front of the blade, the guide might not be long enough to support the cut all the way through.
*I have always cut sheet goods on 2x4s on the ground (which works well with this tool - no clamps to get in the way), however on one cut the 2x4 was sticking out a little bit from the sheet goods and the guide caught the 2x4 instead of the edge of the plywood... doh! (Luckily this was a project I had chosen for the wide margin of error and the piece was still useable - also I rotated the sheet 180 degrees for the rest of the cuts - using the other factory edge- so that the one error wouldn't be compounded).
*Once I got the guide calibrated properly I drew a line on the guide at the edge of the saw to make it easier to put the guide on. It is accurate enough for my purposes, but if you need greater precision you might need to do a test cut each time you put this on.
By Bob Bewick
This is the best Rip-Cut jig I have ever used. None of my shop-made jigs were consistent enough to trust with expensive plywood. Each setting on the Kreg jig was dead on target once it was calibrated to my saw. No need to constantly measure 2 or 3 times before making the cut.
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