- Constructed with a pancake style tank for optimal stability
- Provides longer air tool performance
- Contains a 6 gallon capacity
- Includes 13 piece accessory kit
- 150 psi max tank pressure stores more air in the tank for longer tool run times
- 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi allows for quick compressor recovery time, per ISO1217
- Air coupler and plug are factory installed on the air hose to save user labor and to prevent leaks
Black & Decker Pancake Compressor is constructed with a pancake style tank for optimal stability, water drain valve, rubber feet and a 150 PSI. The higher pressure design provides longer air tool performance and features a 2.6 SCFM at 90 PSI allowing for a quick recovery time. Includes an oil free pump for no maintenance, low AMP 120V motor easily starting in cold weather or with extension cord, upgraded shroud with hand and console cover protecting vital components. Made for easy transporting and contains cord wrap with a 6 gallon capacity. Product includes a one year limited warranty on compressor components and a 13 piece accessory kit.

By W. Richards
I've used portable work-site compressors of various types for over 30 years; primarily for pneumatic fasteners and framers. The Porter Cable pancake compressor is, by far, the only one that is truly, comfortably portable, without sharp corners, while at the same time having the PSI and air capacity of six gallons to keep an air-thirsty framer working. I'm amused by the occasional complaints here and at other sites of the Porter Cable not having sufficient power for framing nailers, or that the unit kicks in regularly. Regarding the first commentary, my response is that this compressor has ample capacity to keep two framing nailers busy, PROVIDED THAT the user understands the simple physics in volume air handling. The hose ID is, in actual terms, a secondary stage air tank. The 25 foot x 1/4 inch hose supplied with the compressor is a terrific, light-weight hose and suits the machine's portability. For blowing up things around the home, and filling tires or delivering air to a stapler or brad gun, it is perfect. Having said that, ANY professional carpenter knows that a framing nailer, with its large bore and stroke, gobbles a very large volume of air, which must be backed up with volume that exceeds it. Only a 3/8" hose, or greater, will do that. As to the issue of the compressor kicking in regularly, perhaps some understanding of what's involved with this cycling is needed. All compressors have a turn-on/shut-off tank pressure parameter, whereby the tank pressure never rises above its safe working pressure, nor drops below the design minimum operating pressure. Normally, the action of the regulator allows for the pressure to drop to slightly above the hose supply pressure, at which time it kicks in and recharges the tank to full reserve pressure. Depending on the call for air from the user, this regulation may be more or less frequent, but it should always be predictable, if one were to watch the two dial indicators. When short-cycling occurs, it will be accompanied by a failure of the tank pressure to rise to the full rated pressure of the machine. The cause for frequent, or short, cycling is caused by the presence of water in the tank, which interferes with the pressure regulator. As air is compressed, water--present in all atmosphere--is wrung from it, and contaminates the air tank. This water, if not drained regularly, will eventually rust through the air tank in the long term, but in the short term of only a few hours, will get into the regulator valve, cause short cycling, thus preventing the compressor from attaining maximum stored pressure. Draining the tank must be done once every work-day, minimally, but on humid days, may be required every two or three hours, or whenever short-cycling begins to occur. Small portable compressors simply do not have a provision for collection of water, as large commercial compressors may have. As a helpful hint, the only way to correctly and completely drain the tank of water is to do as follows: Shut off compressor. Pull release ring and allow pressure to drop to at least 30 PSI. Open tank drain cock completely. Tilt compressor toward the valve and wait for the water to blow from it. It may take up to a minute to get it to spit its last, but it's extremely vital for the power, proper operation, and life of the machine. Now, about power... A look at the specs are pretty interesting. Porter Cable's design parameter is 120 PSI minimum to 150 PSI maximum. Their minimum is greater than the maximum of most machines in its class, and the maximum is 15 PSI greater than many machines that top-out at 135 PSI! Now, look at the tank capacity... 6 gallons! Again, it's the gallons of air--the volume--that refills the tool. Of course, such a machine is not ever going to maintain continuous air flow to tools that operate by bleeding off copious volumes of air, but then, such machines are not only not portable, they cost many hundreds, into the thousands, more. Finally, I live where oil-lubed air compressors stop working on cold days. A dry compressor such as the Porter Cable is unaffected by cold, and keeps working. I wonder how many people experience problems with their compressor because they didn't break it in, and began working it out of the box. Read the manual. The compressor requires a 15 minute break-in period, with no load, with the drain valve open. That's key. If you don't do it, you'll have a scored cylinder and air by-pass at the piston, and NO POWER. Your father used to ALWAYS break in his new car engine, because he knew that otherwise he'd be buying stock in an oil company. Even though manufacturers of many motors no longer stress this, it remains a fact that piston motors and engines run longer, more smoothly, more economically, and with greater efficiency after break in. Leakage around piston rings with a new motor is almost always caused by failure to break a motor in. Did you break your compressor in? Hmmmm???
This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.
Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!
This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.
Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!
By Stuart Langrehr
Was using a one gallon Campbell Haus compressor. It was incredibly loud and didn't hold much air. Using it for filling car and atv tires. Wanted more air capacity and quiter use. This Porter Cable six gallon is far better and quieter too. The extra accessories included with the WK version is less expensive than the standard C2002. Very nice unit and well built. Meets all my needs and runs less often due to the 6 gallon tank. Delivered on time as promised by Amazon. Well done!
By HightechZ71
I purchased this item from Lowes just because I had seen this item manufactured on How It's Made on the Science Channel and took note that many steps were taken during manufacturing to insure a good end product. I have other compressors at my home including a 60 Gallon 240 Volt professional grade compressor but this portable compressor is a great product. It is compact, light, powerful, is stable and balanced when running, and has a cutoff pressure of 150 P.S.I. that helps it stay well ahead of the performance game. I use it whenever I want a portable air source, it is as convenient to transport as a portable vacuum cleaner. I would recommend this to any homeowner who needs a reliable, convenient source of compressed air. Additionally, it has two output quick connectors and very nice gauges and regulator. It is my first oil-less air compressor and I am satisfied with it's performance.
By weekend warrior 13
I recently purchased this for my father, we work on a cabin in Canada, using a generator, and we wanted lightweight as we haul items in and out by boat. Also, the generator is not that large (3000 watt) and it handled this compressor without any problem. I previously purchased an oil-lubed compressor for myself (PC, 2.5 hp, dual tank, model CPLDC2540S), because I wanted something quite. I was surprised when I turned this compressor on, as it seems quieter than mine!! It also weighs less than mine!
There is 1 minute of assembly requiring a phillips screwdriver, but it was fairly easy (attach the motor to the tank, although the hose is already attached).
I think it is a good buy from of a good brand.
There is 1 minute of assembly requiring a phillips screwdriver, but it was fairly easy (attach the motor to the tank, although the hose is already attached).
I think it is a good buy from of a good brand.
By Kindle Customer
I was actually looking for one of those 12 volt dc compressors that plugs into the accessories outlet of the car, but my auto mechanic-brother-in-law recommended that I go with a pancake compressor. I'm glad I took his advise. It's great for keeping the tires on our cars properly inflated, blowing the dust out of air filters and tools, and even cleaning the empty mouse nest out the engine of the garden tractor.
I was originally worried that it might take up too much space in the garage but it's very compact, light, and highly mobile. Great price, too. No post-purchase regrets.
Update: A year later and it's still working great. this last winter one of my tires developed a slow leak that necessitated adding air every other week. Doing so in the comfort of my garage instead of in the snow at the gas station was great. A month or so later a pot hole bent a rim on my wife's car and the compressor again came to the rescue. I have now acquired the annoying habit of checking the tire pressure on my daughter's and son's car when they visit.
I was originally worried that it might take up too much space in the garage but it's very compact, light, and highly mobile. Great price, too. No post-purchase regrets.
Update: A year later and it's still working great. this last winter one of my tires developed a slow leak that necessitated adding air every other week. Doing so in the comfort of my garage instead of in the snow at the gas station was great. A month or so later a pot hole bent a rim on my wife's car and the compressor again came to the rescue. I have now acquired the annoying habit of checking the tire pressure on my daughter's and son's car when they visit.
By L. Webley
I'm a framer and carpenter with a 4 man crew. We run 2 framing nailers off this compressor every day.
It's bulletproof, very well made, liteweight and has a great refill time.
It's bulletproof, very well made, liteweight and has a great refill time.
By GREGG
Been working good for almost 2 years

By gpserg
I can't speak to professionals but for myself, a homeowner with less demanding needs, this compressor is well suited. I needed something to top-off auto/bicycle tires and handle occasional trim nailing. Dusting off the work bench and other hard to clean items came to mind too (PC cases, keyboards, car interior, wood blinds, filters, etc.). Works great for all, although you're better off purchasing a higher quality hose and accessories. I bought the Hitachi 1/4" 100' hose so I can get most anywhere in the house from the garage (although it's small and light enough to move it around if you're sticking with the included 25' hose).
As far as noise, it's not that bad at all. Louder than a vacuum, but quieter than a lawn mower. It's a low droning noise, unlike the high-pitched whine I got from my portable tire inflator (which was much louder than this compressor). Takes a bit under 3 minutes to fill completely from empty, then under a minute to refill once it drops below 120psi.
Never owning a compressor before I didn't realize you need to empty it after each use. No big deal - I just use the remaining air to dust the car dash - it's great for cleaning out all those cracks and crevices (just don't blast any speaker cones).
Note I was planning on getting the DeWalt D55140 since it's smaller, lighter and very quiet. I know someone who has one so I was able to try it. Seems slightly better built too. If you just plan on doing trim nailing and tire filling I recommend it over this one. However for dusting the 1 gal capacity is limiting - you get about 30sec of 40psi air - the compressor kicks in but just can't keep up (you just have to stop and wait for it to refill). With the Porter-Cable I can get continuous 40-50psi with the compressor running. If this is not a need, the DeWalt may be a better choice.
As far as noise, it's not that bad at all. Louder than a vacuum, but quieter than a lawn mower. It's a low droning noise, unlike the high-pitched whine I got from my portable tire inflator (which was much louder than this compressor). Takes a bit under 3 minutes to fill completely from empty, then under a minute to refill once it drops below 120psi.
Never owning a compressor before I didn't realize you need to empty it after each use. No big deal - I just use the remaining air to dust the car dash - it's great for cleaning out all those cracks and crevices (just don't blast any speaker cones).
Note I was planning on getting the DeWalt D55140 since it's smaller, lighter and very quiet. I know someone who has one so I was able to try it. Seems slightly better built too. If you just plan on doing trim nailing and tire filling I recommend it over this one. However for dusting the 1 gal capacity is limiting - you get about 30sec of 40psi air - the compressor kicks in but just can't keep up (you just have to stop and wait for it to refill). With the Porter-Cable I can get continuous 40-50psi with the compressor running. If this is not a need, the DeWalt may be a better choice.
By D. F. McCarthy
I needed an air compressor for occasional use. After searching the reviews for many hours I learned that oil type compressors may generally have a greater capacity than oil free compressors. But they need a lot more (and regular) maintenance. They depend on splashed around oil for lubrication. So they should be started with the drain open, so the oil can get around before strain is put on the moving parts. And they need to be brought up to working temperature/pressure regularly to heat the oil to drive out moisture. And change the oil frequently, as soon as it starts to darken. Don't wait until it's black. Do all that maintenance and you should get many years of service from your oil type compressor. And avoid extension cords. They can cause motor overheating. Use a longer air hose instead.
By comparison this is all an oil free like the C2002 needs:
I would suggest when plugging a hose into the forward facing connector, do it _before_ pressurizing the tank. That will save pressing really hard in a direction that would unscrew the manifold. If you need to plug into an already pressurized tank, use the connector to the right. That way you're not doing anything to make the manifold want to twist. Extension cords and tripping circuit breakers, not generally a problem. Not that I'm suggesting overdoing extension cords. Eventually the rings will wear out. But you can buy an entire factory rebuilt C2002 on Amazon for $120, including shipping!
Since I first wrote this, I emailed a friend with several decades experience. He said that the home user doesn't need an oiler in the line for air tools. Just put one, at most two drops of Marvel Mystery Oil for air tools in the tool's intake before plugging it into the air hose. You should get a fine mist out when you first start the tool.
He also said he didn't think an oil/water/sediment filter was needed for air blowing. But for me, if I'm blowing out/off electrical or optical equipment (use low pressure!), I'd like a small filter at the intake to the air blow gun. I already have a gun for that type use only. I took it completely apart and deoiled/degreased all of its internal parts and seals.
And remember. when you are through,(also true for oil type):
1) Pull the relief valve until the pressure is down to 20 PSI. If you don't do this, the water may come out with enough force to injure your finger.
2) Tilt the tank so the drain is facing straight down. Then open drain.
3) While tank is draining make sure you rotate the regulator knob until it turns freely.
4) The friend who has used compressors for fifty years told me he runs the compressor with the drain valve open for a few minutes. How long would depend on size of tank. The object is to dry the inside of the tank with warm air. When done, after the pump is off, you can close the drain valve on nice dry tank. (I'm going out to the garage to do that to my C2002 as soon as I finish this update to my Comment.)
A free copy of the Owner's Manual can be found at: deltaportercabledotcom Click on "Service-Support"
Parts Diagram at: ereplacementpartsdotcom
My thanks to the several reviewers that went to the trouble to educate us newbies about maintenance of air compressors, particularly the oil type. Credits to Flying V and John E. Schofield on Amazon and TronixH of Richmond, VA and elduac of Auburn, AL on the Sears website. Check their original reviews for more details. Anything not in them is original from me. And I second Flying V's comment. <grin>
Further update. I just tested it with a digital Ammeter. 10.0 A peak at start, drops to 7.5 A, then slowly rises back to 10.0 A as it is topping up the tank at 150 PSI. So it should work off of any 120 VAC outlet anywhere there is no other big current user. Unfortunately can't expect it to work with my inverter off of my car's battery. (But I may be in the market for a 1500 W inverter at a good price.)
By comparison this is all an oil free like the C2002 needs:
I would suggest when plugging a hose into the forward facing connector, do it _before_ pressurizing the tank. That will save pressing really hard in a direction that would unscrew the manifold. If you need to plug into an already pressurized tank, use the connector to the right. That way you're not doing anything to make the manifold want to twist. Extension cords and tripping circuit breakers, not generally a problem. Not that I'm suggesting overdoing extension cords. Eventually the rings will wear out. But you can buy an entire factory rebuilt C2002 on Amazon for $120, including shipping!
Since I first wrote this, I emailed a friend with several decades experience. He said that the home user doesn't need an oiler in the line for air tools. Just put one, at most two drops of Marvel Mystery Oil for air tools in the tool's intake before plugging it into the air hose. You should get a fine mist out when you first start the tool.
He also said he didn't think an oil/water/sediment filter was needed for air blowing. But for me, if I'm blowing out/off electrical or optical equipment (use low pressure!), I'd like a small filter at the intake to the air blow gun. I already have a gun for that type use only. I took it completely apart and deoiled/degreased all of its internal parts and seals.
And remember. when you are through,(also true for oil type):
1) Pull the relief valve until the pressure is down to 20 PSI. If you don't do this, the water may come out with enough force to injure your finger.
2) Tilt the tank so the drain is facing straight down. Then open drain.
3) While tank is draining make sure you rotate the regulator knob until it turns freely.
4) The friend who has used compressors for fifty years told me he runs the compressor with the drain valve open for a few minutes. How long would depend on size of tank. The object is to dry the inside of the tank with warm air. When done, after the pump is off, you can close the drain valve on nice dry tank. (I'm going out to the garage to do that to my C2002 as soon as I finish this update to my Comment.)
A free copy of the Owner's Manual can be found at: deltaportercabledotcom Click on "Service-Support"
Parts Diagram at: ereplacementpartsdotcom
My thanks to the several reviewers that went to the trouble to educate us newbies about maintenance of air compressors, particularly the oil type. Credits to Flying V and John E. Schofield on Amazon and TronixH of Richmond, VA and elduac of Auburn, AL on the Sears website. Check their original reviews for more details. Anything not in them is original from me. And I second Flying V's comment. <grin>
Further update. I just tested it with a digital Ammeter. 10.0 A peak at start, drops to 7.5 A, then slowly rises back to 10.0 A as it is topping up the tank at 150 PSI. So it should work off of any 120 VAC outlet anywhere there is no other big current user. Unfortunately can't expect it to work with my inverter off of my car's battery. (But I may be in the market for a 1500 W inverter at a good price.)
By Dr Rick
After doing some research, I purchased this air compressor as a good, small light-duty compressor. So far, I'm very pleased with the purchase. I bought it to replace a DeWalt D55140 (1 gal.), which did not last nearly long enough. (See my review of that product.) The Porter-Cable is a little quieter than the DeWalt. I have felt comfortable using it in an open garage without ear protection. Because the Porter-Cable holds 6 gal., it cycles on and off less. At only 34 lbs,, it is very light, certainly lighter than the DeWalt. With the new top housing (a recent improvement), the handle is centered over the center of the weight so that it carries well, that is, it doesn't want to swing to one side when you pick it up. Having the gauges in the plastic housing has a much more finished look.
The WK version gives you an air hose and a few attachments. Many reviewers complain that they weren't worth the price differential from the compressor alone (C2002). I largely agree. The included hose isn't bad; it is identical to the hose originally included with the DeWalt. Although I have a couple of nicer, rubber hoses, I have more often used this one because it rolls into a smaller, lighter loop for transporting. The air gauge works, but it mostly plastic. In my case, I got the WK version for within $5 of the version without the added attachments.
The one thing I don't like as well as the DeWalt is the moisture-drain valve on the bottom. It is a screw type on this Porter-Cable, whereas the DeWalt had a thumb lever. The thumb lever is quicker. I'll take the valve off the DeWalt before I throw it in the trash.
So far, this compressor has handled everything I have thrown at it, and it hasn't had to run that much to keep up. I'm hoping that it lasts awhile since that's what really makes the difference between a winner and a looser. Please know that the Porter-Cable comes with a 1-year warranty. I was under the impression from this website that it had a 3-year warranty. After closer inspection of this website, it was an add-on warranty that Amazon sells separately from a third-party vendor. The Porter-Cable comes stock with a 1-year.
The WK version gives you an air hose and a few attachments. Many reviewers complain that they weren't worth the price differential from the compressor alone (C2002). I largely agree. The included hose isn't bad; it is identical to the hose originally included with the DeWalt. Although I have a couple of nicer, rubber hoses, I have more often used this one because it rolls into a smaller, lighter loop for transporting. The air gauge works, but it mostly plastic. In my case, I got the WK version for within $5 of the version without the added attachments.
The one thing I don't like as well as the DeWalt is the moisture-drain valve on the bottom. It is a screw type on this Porter-Cable, whereas the DeWalt had a thumb lever. The thumb lever is quicker. I'll take the valve off the DeWalt before I throw it in the trash.
So far, this compressor has handled everything I have thrown at it, and it hasn't had to run that much to keep up. I'm hoping that it lasts awhile since that's what really makes the difference between a winner and a looser. Please know that the Porter-Cable comes with a 1-year warranty. I was under the impression from this website that it had a 3-year warranty. After closer inspection of this website, it was an add-on warranty that Amazon sells separately from a third-party vendor. The Porter-Cable comes stock with a 1-year.
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