- Designed to remove broken studs, bolts, socket screws, and fittings
- Aggressive left hand spiral design for extra gripping power
- Easy out style spiral flutes embed themselves to increase grip as resistance increases
- Extractor size and recommended drill bit size are etched on each tool
- Set includes spiral flute screw extractors sizes EX-1, EX-2, EX-3, EX-4, EX-5; drill bit sizes 5/64", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4", 19/64", and a metal index case
The IRWIN HANSON Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece, features an aggressive left hand design for extra gripping power. Easy out style spiral flutes embed themselves deeper into the metal as the tool is turned so grip increases as resistance increases. With sizes etched onto each tool for quick identification, it includes EX-1, EX-2, EX-3, EX-4, and EX-5 extractors; 5/64", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4", and 19/64" drill bits and a metal index case.
By wrenchrrr
This kit works very well. Extracting broken fasteners does take some patience and skill. Sometimes just using an automatic center punch will remove it by punching it close to the edge angling to unscrew it with every click. If you have to drill it, always use a reverse bit so if the bit catches, it will back out instead of tightening. Sometimes you can drill in about a quarter inch, then angle the drill slightly so it will grab the edge of the hole and the broken fastener will back out. Always center punch the broken bolt to be removed so if you end up having to completely drill it out and retap the hole, you end up with the repaired hole pretty much in the same spot. Once you drill it big enough and close to the threads, you can sometimes use a pick or knife to collapse the remaining bolt in and then pull it out with pliers. If it's severely rusted in, use a GOOD penetrant. If it's beyond severely rusted in, allow the penetrant to sit, even overnight helps. Heating up the part, not the fastener (metal expands when heated), in conjunction with penetrant or wax sometimes helps but remember what heat does (destroys gaskets, melts rubber hoses, burns human flesh, causes gas to explode...). If you drill it with the first pilot hole, you can spray penetrant through the hole with the little spray straw. If there's a little bit of broken off bolt sticking out, you can tap it with a hammer to break the rust loose, then sometimes use vice grips to grab and unscrew it.
It's good to get the 53535 extractor set and 30520 drill set so you have extra pieces on hand for when drill bits and extractors break, wear out, or get lost. It never fails, the one you're missing is the one you need. 53635 Straight flute type work good to keep the fastener from expanding in the hole.. Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set makes it MUCH easier to use extractors and taps. HeliCoil 80-450 or similar one piece drill and grab type work better if you drill a hole first. Craftsman Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set 52166 work good if there is enough sticking out. Taps or thread chasers are sometimes needed to make new threads or repair existing ones. If you don't have them, a bolt with a groove or two grount or filed into it will work (to clean up threads, not to make new ones). Clean up the edges of the groove so it doesn't gall the threads.
Another trick is once you have the extractor in the hole you've drilled in the broken bolt, put some unscrewing tension on it, then use your auto center punch to punch it close to the edge angling to unscrew it with every click. The combination of tension and clicking can help to break the fastener free if badly rusted in or if someone put it in with locktite. If red locktite threadlocker was used you will have to use heat to burn it off.
As you can see, there's alot of sometimes and maybes. Patience, experience, and eventually skill all help. Each situation requires a different approach. Good luck.
Update 4/20/13
Look for multi spline extractors, also made by Irwin. I've found them to perform much better than these spiral flute extractors. Now, the only reason I would use the spirals is because the reverse drill bits are in the same case. If the fastener is being difficult, I'll reach for the multi splines.
They also sell a kit that I think comes with both types of extractors, more reverse drill bits, and I think taps too.
It's good to get the 53535 extractor set and 30520 drill set so you have extra pieces on hand for when drill bits and extractors break, wear out, or get lost. It never fails, the one you're missing is the one you need. 53635 Straight flute type work good to keep the fastener from expanding in the hole.. Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set makes it MUCH easier to use extractors and taps. HeliCoil 80-450 or similar one piece drill and grab type work better if you drill a hole first. Craftsman Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set 52166 work good if there is enough sticking out. Taps or thread chasers are sometimes needed to make new threads or repair existing ones. If you don't have them, a bolt with a groove or two grount or filed into it will work (to clean up threads, not to make new ones). Clean up the edges of the groove so it doesn't gall the threads.
Another trick is once you have the extractor in the hole you've drilled in the broken bolt, put some unscrewing tension on it, then use your auto center punch to punch it close to the edge angling to unscrew it with every click. The combination of tension and clicking can help to break the fastener free if badly rusted in or if someone put it in with locktite. If red locktite threadlocker was used you will have to use heat to burn it off.
As you can see, there's alot of sometimes and maybes. Patience, experience, and eventually skill all help. Each situation requires a different approach. Good luck.
Update 4/20/13
Look for multi spline extractors, also made by Irwin. I've found them to perform much better than these spiral flute extractors. Now, the only reason I would use the spirals is because the reverse drill bits are in the same case. If the fastener is being difficult, I'll reach for the multi splines.
They also sell a kit that I think comes with both types of extractors, more reverse drill bits, and I think taps too.
By Lester A. Carver
I bought this item after reading several chat room discussions about removing exhaust manifold studs that have broken off in the cylinder head. I'm not sure if it was the fact that the bits were left handed (have to run the drill in reverse) or that they were cobalt coated, or what it was, but, the bit worked great and the extractor backed the stud out with no problem. A couple of notes: 1. I heated the stud with a propane torch and immediately pressed an ordinary household candle to the stud. This causes the melted wax to be sucked into the threads and lubricate them. 2. I did not run the drill at full speed. Patience is a must. 3. I dipped the bit in motor oil for cooling several times during the drilling. This also allows the metal shavings to be pulled out of the hole you are drilling.
By Chase
I had a broken bolt on a crankshaft of a Mitsubishi Montero Sport. This set of tools helped me take it out on my first try without problems.
Steps I took.
1: Drilled a hole in the center of the bolt with the drill set to counter clockwise.
2: Put an extractor in the hole and spin it counter clockwise till it get a hold of the bolt.
3: Hammer the extractor into the bolt.
4: Twist out the bolt using the extractor with a tap wrench or pliers.
Steps I took.
1: Drilled a hole in the center of the bolt with the drill set to counter clockwise.
2: Put an extractor in the hole and spin it counter clockwise till it get a hold of the bolt.
3: Hammer the extractor into the bolt.
4: Twist out the bolt using the extractor with a tap wrench or pliers.
By Tex Reviews
I had an oil drain plug that would not budge, and eventually the head stripped. This set allowed me to quickly and easily remove the plug. I used the reverse drill bit to bore out the allen head deep enough to drive a multi spline screw extractor in. With some pounding on the breaker bar with a hammer I was able to finally get the plug out. 5 star!
See my pictures for the plug.
See my pictures for the plug.
By Alison A. Peruski
I had originally purchased a similar set from Harbor Frieght, which were a complete waste. The bits were dull from the get go and broke easily. Based in how brittle the drills were I wasn't even going to try their extractor.
I decided to give this set (USA made, but a bit more expensive) a try and was pleased with how well the bits cut. Don't forget these are left handed so your drill needs to be in reverse. Put a T handle on the extractor, and broke it loose no problem. Glad I waited and went with this set. The HF set is going in the trash.
I decided to give this set (USA made, but a bit more expensive) a try and was pleased with how well the bits cut. Don't forget these are left handed so your drill needs to be in reverse. Put a T handle on the extractor, and broke it loose no problem. Glad I waited and went with this set. The HF set is going in the trash.
By Amy D
Great product, I give this kit 5 stars!
comes with all the info to help you get the job done and most importantly strong bits, to get it done the first time.
(TIP)Extractor/ Drilling heads up: if you attempt to use the smallest bit to complete your pre-drill extraction it may result with a broken bit, learn from my experience; when the tiny bit bites and wont budge don't push it move on to the next one.
I would recommend this product!
comes with all the info to help you get the job done and most importantly strong bits, to get it done the first time.
(TIP)Extractor/ Drilling heads up: if you attempt to use the smallest bit to complete your pre-drill extraction it may result with a broken bit, learn from my experience; when the tiny bit bites and wont budge don't push it move on to the next one.
I would recommend this product!
By S. Wetzel
The drill bits drill exceptionally well (better than my Irwin TurboMax set of drill bits). Left hand bits are nice for those bolts that don't require an extractor. The extractors hold up well. As with any extractor, some bolts just aren't going to come out using them. But they will work on most bolts.
By DrDiesel
I rebuild diesel engines and have used this set weekly extracting broken fittings and plugs. I am very impressed with the quality and so far durability. I have really put some torque on the larger extractors, and without fail these have performed far greater than I have ever expected. Highly recommend.
By Troy D.
I used these Irwin extractors to remove a broken brass fitting and it was much easier and faster than having to drill and re-tap the threads. With these I found you need to insert the extractor into the piece you want to remove, and then give it a few taps of a hammer to set the extractors' flutes into the piece so that they can bite into it, then try to extract. If the extractor is spinning inside the object give it a few more taps and try again. Don't try forcing it into the piece too hard or too quickly, they have a slight wedge shape and if you tap it too hard you might expand the piece you want removed and that'll just make it harder to extract.
By Amazon Customer
First let me say these Extractors size 5 specifically helped me out of a Jam. It easily saved me over $1000 in a shop to have the heads pulled. This got the threaded part of a spark plug out in less than 15 minutes (not counting the overnight Parts Blaster Soak)
I ordered these Straight Flute Extractors for work on a Ford Ranger where the Spark Plug HEX broke off in the Head. I had first tried Spiral Extractors however I couldn't get them to bite and pull. Since the spiral causes expansion of the threads it wasn't helping. So I looked online and found these. Wow they got here quick and the quality seemed fine.
The prep work to use these was to soak the spark plug tube with Parts blaster or Penetrating oil overnight. I did that last night and just crossed my fingers that it would work. I found the size 5 fit the inside of the plug very well and slightly tapped it in. I had a 13 MM 16 point socket that fit the end of it very well. I took a half inch ratchet and started to turn and it turned but didn't bite. At this point I started to get a little discouraged that I was going to have to get it towed.
On second try I hammered the extractor in there. Not very hard but enough where it straightened out and didn't easily move. I then sprayed parts blaster on it and waited 5 minutes. This time when I tried to turn it with the 1/2 inch ratchet it resisted. I put a little pressure and it gave. I though it slipped again but to my surprise it started to spin the threads out. I can no declare how satisfied I am with this product. QUALITY is an understatement.
If you need to get out a spark plug and don't think it will work try this.
1. Soak the part for at least 24 hours. BE GENEROUS with with liquid wrench or similar product. It will burn off or evaporate when you are done anyway.
2 Let it sit at least overnight and maybe spray it a second time and let sit. PATIENCE IS THE KEY!
3.Get a size 5 extractor and hammer it into it. As I said no hard hits just tap it in as Happy Gilmore would say.
4. Find a good socket that fits the end of the size 5. For me it was a 13 mm 16 point socket. Turn it and see if it gives. If not try soaking longer and if needed use heat. I personally did not need to use a torch to heat it up.
5. Have an iced tea or Beer and feel relieved
Good luck and don't question the product it works great!
I ordered these Straight Flute Extractors for work on a Ford Ranger where the Spark Plug HEX broke off in the Head. I had first tried Spiral Extractors however I couldn't get them to bite and pull. Since the spiral causes expansion of the threads it wasn't helping. So I looked online and found these. Wow they got here quick and the quality seemed fine.
The prep work to use these was to soak the spark plug tube with Parts blaster or Penetrating oil overnight. I did that last night and just crossed my fingers that it would work. I found the size 5 fit the inside of the plug very well and slightly tapped it in. I had a 13 MM 16 point socket that fit the end of it very well. I took a half inch ratchet and started to turn and it turned but didn't bite. At this point I started to get a little discouraged that I was going to have to get it towed.
On second try I hammered the extractor in there. Not very hard but enough where it straightened out and didn't easily move. I then sprayed parts blaster on it and waited 5 minutes. This time when I tried to turn it with the 1/2 inch ratchet it resisted. I put a little pressure and it gave. I though it slipped again but to my surprise it started to spin the threads out. I can no declare how satisfied I am with this product. QUALITY is an understatement.
If you need to get out a spark plug and don't think it will work try this.
1. Soak the part for at least 24 hours. BE GENEROUS with with liquid wrench or similar product. It will burn off or evaporate when you are done anyway.
2 Let it sit at least overnight and maybe spray it a second time and let sit. PATIENCE IS THE KEY!
3.Get a size 5 extractor and hammer it into it. As I said no hard hits just tap it in as Happy Gilmore would say.
4. Find a good socket that fits the end of the size 5. For me it was a 13 mm 16 point socket. Turn it and see if it gives. If not try soaking longer and if needed use heat. I personally did not need to use a torch to heat it up.
5. Have an iced tea or Beer and feel relieved
Good luck and don't question the product it works great!
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